I guess I'll start by following up on my last post. The day after I ran into the cops, I ran into them again. The same cops, at the same place, at the same time. I averted eye contact and hoped to avoid another rough interaction. To my surprise, the one cop shouted 'Американец! Мой друг! Как вы?' (English: 'American! My friend! How are you?') We all laughed. The other cop pretended like he wanted to see my papers, but he was just messing around. It was a welcome relief to be treated with a bit of humanity at last. I suppose I'll be passing those two a lot this year, which should make for some fun stories when I'm back in the US.
Making some new friends in the Dushanbe police force was not the only exciting occurrence that day. Later that night, I was woken up by my host mother, who had my RD on the phone. Jake, the RD, called to inform me that there had been an explosion in western Dushanbe earlier in the evening. Some people reported they heard automatic weapons fire in the area as well. The US Embassy advised all Americans to stay indoors for the following day. So the next day was pretty dull, but full of anxiety on my part. I found out later that there were few people who knew exactly what happened. There were various rumors spreading about a party and some fireworks going awry though. Some misfired pyrotechnics sounds a lot less dangerous than a bombing. So I've decided to believe that story. Either way, the local news reported nothing, there was no change in police/military activity, and thus my RD (who has lived in Dushanbe for a long time) believed it must have been something insignificant.
I haven't even been here a week and already I have been hassled by the police and confined to my house for a day. I wouldn't have my abroad experience go any other way. The RD told me that my host family has hosted many Americans in the past and so it would be pretty hard for any of my actions to shock them. He underestimated me though. Not only am I the family's (lucky) thirteenth student, but I am also the only one to bring the cops home on the first day. So far, so good.
But I jest. Really I am trying to lay low as best I can. Tajikistan is actually a very safe place, but it would still behoove me to fly under the radar. Before departing the US, I decided I wanted to grow a full beard when I got here. During orientation, however, we learned that beards are not that common on the streets of Dushanbe. Those with beards are often stopped more frequently by the police because beards are commonly associated with Islamic extremism. Even in Tajikistan. I still haven't shaved since I flew here and the beard is looking pretty rough. Perhaps I will pare it down tonight. And that's enough about my facial hair..
To get back to the reason I am abroad in the first place, classes started today. I had my Mass Media class and then a session of Persian Grammar. All classes are taught entirely in Farsi. I was extremely nervous going into class, but I found that there was no need for such apprehension. When my professors spoke, I could understand a surprising amount of what they said and that was quite encouraging for the first day of school.
I have never been in a situation like this before. Outside of my peers on the American Councils program, no one is willing or able to speak English with me. In order to communicate any needs or wishes or feelings, I must first plan out what I want to say and then think how I can coherently convey that message. However exhausting it may feel at times, this regimen will certainly pay off. Already I can feel my proficiency growing in both Russian and Farsi. It is a constant source of motivation to know that this experience is really working for me.
Until my next post,
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Great blog, Joe. I really look forward to your posts. I'm glad you are on better terms with the authorities. What a great experience! We love you and are very proud of you.
ReplyDeleteI like that you are adding local phraseology, but was it Russian or Tajik?
ReplyDeleteah that was Russian. my Tajik is pretty limited at this point. I'm still not exactly sure how much Farsi and Tajik overlap. I had my first Tajik class today and all we did was go over the Cyrillic alphabet for those who were unfamiliar with it.
ReplyDeleteI love hearing your tales! I've had a few jeez, this would be great to text Joey moments in the last few days, and have been saddened to realize that I can't. I'm glad you're learning so many cool things! Come visit me in the frozen wasteland when you return so I can absorb all of the Russian!
ReplyDeleteObviously, your sign off was in Russian and Farsi(?). But was that your name?
ReplyDeleteThis is very educational.